From Gym to Crag: How to Take the Next Steps in Outdoor Rock Climbing

Making the leap from indoor climbing to outdoor rock climbing is a thrilling and rewarding experience, but it also comes with a whole new set of challenges and considerations. Whether you’re looking to tackle natural rock features, experience the beauty of climbing outdoors, or test your skills in a new environment, outdoor climbing is a significant step up from the controlled environment of a climbing gym.

If you’re ready to take your climbing from the gym to the crag, here’s everything you need to know to make the transition as smooth and safe as possible.

1. Understanding the Environment

Indoor gyms are designed with safety and consistency in mind: predictable routes, soft landings, and little to no exposure to the elements. Outdoor climbing, however, introduces an entirely new set of variables. You’ll be dealing with natural rock formations, unpredictable weather, and environmental factors like temperature, wind, and even wildlife. 

Before you head to the crag, it’s essential to study the area. Look for guidebooks, online resources, or even talk to local climbers to understand the conditions and challenges you might face. Some crags are known for their exposure to high winds or sun, which can drastically change the way you climb.

Key Considerations:

Rock Quality: Outdoor rock can be crumbly or more polished than gym holds. Check for loose rocks before you climb.

Weather: Always check the weather forecast. Wet rock can be much more dangerous, and some climbing areas are prone to rapid weather changes. In some delicate areas climbing wet rock can be detrimental to the rocks, so ask around before you start climbing outside if this area is sensitive. 

Wildlife: Be aware of local animals, insects, and even plants that may pose risks, like poison oak/ivy, rattlesnakes, or bears. 

2. Learn the Basics of Outdoor Gear

While gym climbing usually involves renting gear or using what’s provided, outdoor climbing requires a more specialized approach. Here’s a rundown of essential gear you’ll need:

Dynamic Rope: Outdoor climbing generally requires a dynamic rope, which is designed to stretch and absorb the impact if you fall.

Climbing Shoes: Unlike gym shoes, outdoor shoes often have a stiffer sole for better grip on rough rock. Make sure they fit snugly but aren’t painful.

Helmet: Outdoor climbing presents a higher risk of falling debris, and a helmet is essential for safety.

Chalk Bag: Just like in the gym, chalk is crucial to keep your hands dry on longer outdoor routes. Some areas ban the use of climbing chalk, make sure the crag you are at isn’t one of them before you start climbing. 

Climbing Protection: For trad (traditional) climbing, you’ll need protection devices such as cams and nuts. If you’re sport climbing, you’ll need quickdraws.

We recommend hiring a climbing guide to help you get familiar with the systems and ethics for your local crag. 

3. Safety First: Learn the Skills

Outdoor climbing can be much more dangerous than indoor climbing due to the natural environment and the complexities of rope management. If you’re new to outdoor climbing, it’s critical to have a solid foundation in safety techniques, which include:

Belaying: You need to be proficient in belaying—whether it’s with an ATC or a grigri, make sure you fully understand how to use your belay device before climbing outside. Practice belaying on an outdoor crag with a trusted partner before you start leading.

Anchor Building: This is a skill required for trad climbers or those setting up top-rope anchors. Understanding how to build solid anchors is essential for your safety and that of others.

Lead Climbing: If you’re planning to lead climb outdoors, you’ll need to be confident in your lead belaying skills and understanding of lead climbing techniques. This includes clipping, rope management, and how to handle falls.

Crag Etiquette: The climbing community is generally very friendly, but it’s important to understand crag etiquette—waiting your turn, not crowding routes, and leaving no trace. Some areas have specific etiquette that is different from other areas. If you are confused about what’s right and what’s not, just ask! People will be more than happy to educate you if you show up with a positive attitude. 

Get Training: If you’re new to outdoor climbing, it’s a great idea to take a course or hire a guide. There are many reputable programs that offer beginner and intermediate courses, teaching everything from anchor building to multi-pitch climbing.

4. Get Comfortable with Rappelling

Rappelling is an essential skill for descending from climbs, whether after completing a multi-pitch climb or when cleaning up a sport or trad route. Familiarize yourself with rappelling techniques, including how to use rappel devices and how to anchor yourself securely before you descend.

5. Respect the Outdoors: Leave No Trace

Outdoor climbing is a privilege, and it’s important to minimize your environmental impact. Practice “Leave No Trace” principles to keep the areas you visit pristine for future generations of climbers. This includes:

• Picking up all trash, including chalk bags, tape, and food wrappers.
• Staying on established trails to avoid disturbing the surrounding landscape.
• Respecting wildlife and not disturbing animals or plants.

Many climbing areas are fragile ecosystems, and it’s our responsibility to preserve them. Follow all local regulations, stay informed about access issues, and respect other climbers and outdoor enthusiasts.

6. Build a Community

Climbing outdoors can sometimes feel like a different world than the gym. However, there’s a thriving and supportive climbing community at most crags. Don’t be afraid to talk to other climbers, ask for advice, and share experiences. Climbers tend to be very welcoming, and many are happy to give tips or offer beta on routes. Plus, having climbing partners is essential for safety, so start building your outdoor climbing network.

Embrace the Adventure

Transitioning from gym climbing to outdoor climbing opens up a whole new world of possibilities. It’s a journey that will challenge you in ways that indoor climbing simply can’t. By learning new skills, understanding the environment, and taking safety seriously, you can enjoy the beauty and thrill of outdoor rock climbing while minimizing risk. 

Remember: the outdoor climbing community is about camaraderie and learning together. So, take your time, enjoy the process, and embrace every challenge that comes with climbing real rock.

Happy climbing!

---

Cover Photo Credit: Kaya Lindsay