ProView – Rab Glaceon Pro Jacket Review

I had the opportunity to test the Rab Glaceon Pro, a down jacket designed for extreme winter conditions. I’ve worn it during climbing expeditions in Wyoming’s freezing winds and unexpected snowstorms, and I’m excited to take it to the Nepal Himalayas for ski mountaineering this winter.

Living and working in Leadville, Colorado—the highest mountain town in the U.S.—I regularly face unpredictable weather on my mountaineering expeditions. I tested the Glaceon Pro during a particularly windy week in Vedauwoo, Wyoming. With temperatures plummeting and a surprise snowstorm, it was the perfect opportunity to see how the jacket held up under challenging conditions. With my extensive experience in rock climbing, mountaineering, and trail running, I rely on gear that performs, and the Glaceon Pro delivered.

Fit/Comfort

The jacket fits true to size, with room for layering underneath without feeling too bulky. The down insulation provides incredible warmth, and the adjustable hood offers great coverage in high winds. The chin guard is soft and adds comfort when fully zipped.

Look/Style

While function takes priority, I do wish there were more color options. However, the simple, rugged design fits right into any mountain adventure. It’s clearly a technical piece, but it doesn’t feel cumbersome or too “gear-heavy.”

Features

The helmet-compatible hood, two-way YKK® VISLON® zip, and strategically placed pockets make this jacket well-suited for climbers. The storm flap and adjustable cuffs are small but effective features that help keep the elements out.

Weight/Packability

Despite its high warmth, the Glaceon Pro is impressively lightweight at just 564g. It packs down well, which is a crucial feature for multi-day expeditions or ski touring or using for belays in fall and winter. It doesn’t take up unnecessary space in your pack.

Function/Performance

This jacket excelled in Wyoming’s freezing, gusty conditions. The Pertex® Quantum Pro fabric did an outstanding job of blocking wind while staying breathable. The 700FP recycled down insulation maintained loft even during snow flurries, which speaks volumes for its hydrophobic treatment.

Durability/Construction

I was particularly impressed with how well the jacket held up during scrambles over rocks and repeated wear under my harness. The construction feels solid, and the materials used are of high quality, as expected from Rab.

Friendliness to the Earth

Rab has made strides in sustainability with the Glaceon Pro. It uses recycled Pertex® Quantum Pro fabric and 700FP recycled down with a fluorocarbon-free hydrophobic treatment. This attention to eco-friendly materials is appreciated, especially for those of us who spend our time in nature and want to minimize our impact.

The Final Word

The Glaceon Pro is a robust, lightweight jacket that performs exceptionally in freezing, windy conditions, making it a perfect choice for mountaineers and climbers tackling cold weather/ winter objectives. Its durability, warmth, and eco-conscious design make it stand out among similar products.

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