ProView – Red Chili Voltage X Review

In a time when climbing is more popular than ever, the selection of climbing shoes has boomed so much that it’s hard to hear about any other brands, let alone make a decision. Decision fatigue and paralysis are real. Red Chili has been making climbing shoes for over 25 years and since 2017 has been a part of Edelrid. Every time I put these on in the gym, I get curious looks and get asked about what shoes these are.

The color scheme is (in my opinion) gorgeous. They pop but aren’t ostentatiously bright. They’re not commonly sold at my local climbing gyms or big outdoor stores, but that doesn’t mean they don’t perform. In fact, there are so many great things about this shoe. It’s hard to get an aggressive all-around shoe right, but Red Chili did a thorough job checking so many boxes in my experience over the last 5 weeks using these.

I used these as my everyday shoe across a variety of climbing styles and hold types in the gym, as well as on sandstone, limestone, and quartzite outdoors, both bouldering and climbing on ropes. As a guide and recreational climber, I put these through the wringer!

Sizing & Breaking In

The break-in process for these took about 2-3 sessions, which is normal for me for newer shoes. My toe/foot shape is somewhat Egyptian with the first two digits being similar sizes, and the rest of the toes dropping off, and I feel that the point of the shoe is nearest the second digit. This fit my foot just fine after breaking them in. Even just out of the box, they weren’t uncomfortable. I wear a 38.5 EU in Instincts, and stuck with similar 6.5 US M sizing and the shoes fit me similarly.

Technical Specs

• RC-tension S midsole
• Aggressive downturn, pretensioning, and asymmetry
• Slipper design, sock fit
• VCR strap fast-lacing system with 1 strap
• Large toe patch
• Vibram XS Grip split sole, 4.0mm

Shoe Geometry & Fit

The aggressive downturn, pretensioning, and asymmetry are evident and have kept their shape through about 25 sessions of gym and outdoor climbing on ropes and boulders. That RC-tension midsole is doing a lot of work. I’m used to a more suction-cup type heel, but the slipper design and VCR strap really helped my heel to feel secure in the shoe for hooks. The adjustable strap was a bit confusing – sometimes I would run it through the foot loop, sometimes I would run it over the foot loop (see pics). I’m not sure if either had any effect or if it was just whatever aesthetic the wearer wanted.

The slipper design and sock fit felt great for my feet. The toe box is a bit wider than others, which is nice because I’ve been running with shoes that have a bigger toe box to allow my feet to splay. This is more for medium to high volume feet. This makes the shoe comfortable but still squeezes my toe box enough to feel very snug and secure to have the support to get the power I need for dynamic moves. The sock fit is noticeable, making it feel like a strong hug for my feet. Who doesn’t love a nice hug? 😊 It just means that putting my foot into the shoe is a bit of a struggle. You get used to it, but I never can quite seem to be consistent with my foot entry.

The Rubber & Performance

I love the Vibram XS Grip! It’s soft, but not as soft as the rubber on a Drago. It’s 4mm thick – thicker than the usual 3.5mm – I could still very much feel every tiny foot chip, but it still offered a bit of support to push off the smallest hold. That thickness mixed with the XS Grip material makes this rubber more durable than the XS Grip 2. Slopey footholds felt secure with this soft, grippy rubber (so long as I remembered to keep my heel down! Footwork still counts!). In the same vein, it was also good for smearing, as it easily conformed to whatever it was on. However, there was just enough support where I wasn’t afraid to edge with this shoe (probably due to the 4mm of the soft rubber). On gritty sandstone (or similar rough rock) this shoe really shined. On glassy rock like quartzite or some limestone, the soft rubber had a bit more trouble but at least could still edge. Indoors, this worked well on plastic as a good aggressive all-rounder.

What Sets This Product Apart?

What makes it unique is the aggressive all-around features. Yes, it’s an aggressive shoe, but the type of rubber and thickness make it both malleable and supportive just enough to excel on all kinds of footholds. The large rubber patches on the heel and toe are really good for hooking around all things. The tensioning system coupled with the sock fit really dials in the fit.

Who Is This Shoe For?

This shoe is for the intermediate or experienced climber who understands how to use the nuances of a shoe when they have most of their footwork down. It’s great for hooking heels and toes and has a very solid balance of sensitivity and support for almost any type of indoor climbing.

Friendliness to the Earth

Since mid-2021, Edelrid/Red Chili has been collaborating with the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF). The FWF is a multi-stakeholder initiative that aims to improve working conditions at garment manufacturers all over the world. Red Chili in their website notes caring about ecological and social responsibility, thus only relying on the use of sustainable or recycled materials for both shoes and clothing. All their shoes are completely handmade. Here is more information.

The Final Word

This is a great shoe not just for looks but also for performance. Made for the climber who knows how to utilize their feet for all kinds of holds and hooks and wants that extra bit of stick. The foot entry system can be a bit labored, but it’s well worth it for the shoe that can excel on so many types of movement and holds both in the gym and outdoors.

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