ProView – Edelrid Canary Pro Dry 8.6mm

The Edelrid Canary Pro Dry 8.6mm is a phenomenal rope! This rope has a triple certification as a single, double, and twin rope which can be used for a wide array of applications. As one of the lightest and toughest single ropes on the market, it performs extremely well, but especially in the alpine and on long trad routes. 

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Performance

The Canary Pro Dry 8.6 excelled beyond all of my expectations. The rope handled as smooth as butter from the point I received it onward.  Edelrid uses their 3D lap coil in factory and then thoughtfully packages the rope allowing for a pre-flaked rope ready for immediate use. As soon as I received the Canary 8.6 I took it for a preliminary run on Mt. Evans here in Colorado and had no tangling whatsoever during the entire climb.  Coupled with Edelrid’s Pro Dry, the Canary 8.6 runs smoothly over rock, dirt, and snow without picking up debris or moisture. It was amazing how minimal the effort was to feed the Canary 8.6 through my BD guide ATC in guide mode.  The rope also boasts a 53:47% core to sheath proportion, the thicker sheath allowing for added durability relative to other ropes on the market in the same class. All of these factors made for very fast and efficient rope management which by the end of the day allowed my partner and I to move faster, which is essential in the alpine.  

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Look/ Style

I may be slightly biased because my color scheme when it comes to outdoor gear is lime green, but just look at the photos and you can see the rope is absolutely gorgeous! The Canary 8.6 really lives up to its name and comes to your door bright, almost verging on fluorescent, canary green.  Edelrid also offers a “highlighter” pink version of the rope online.  I am a big fan of bright-colored ropes because the contrast of the rope with natural tones enhances climbing photos! However, more importantly, the vibrant Canary 8.6 allows your belayer to see the rope further away than a drab rope, which helps your belayer to identify potential pinch points that you may need to flick your rope around or areas of concern like sharp edges. Although this is not a game-changer I have found that bright ropes like the Canary 8.6 make it just that much easier for the belayer and climber to efficiently manage the rope and drag.

Features

During the UIAA water-repellent test, Edelrid’s Pro Dry treatment only allowed 1-2% of water absorption, thus allowing the rope to handle well in almost any environmental condition.  Aside from the water and dirt resistance I stated previously, the Pro Dry treatment also increases abrasion resistance, high performance in wet and cold conditions, and a thinner diameter allowing for minimizing overall rope weight.  In terms of rappelling, the Canary 8.6 comes with a dual black middle mark.  As a small diameter single rope, the Canary 8.6 has 32% dynamic elongation which is a double edge sword in a way.  The elongation provides amazingly soft catches, however, if you take or fall on the Canary you will end up below your previous high point.  This being one of the biggest reasons that the Canary 8.6 is not recommended for projecting on a sport route or top-roping with. 

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Weight/ Packability

At 51 g/m, (3570 grams/ 7 lbs 14 oz total for a 70m rope) the Canary 8.6 is easily one of the most lightweight single ropes on the market.  The weight of this rope has to be one of my favorite aspects and why I recommend it so highly for alpine climbing.  Having to approach a climb for miles is a drag with a heavy rope and drains you of essential energy for sending your route. The Canary 8.6, on the other hand, has a slim profile and is a featherweight of a rope to the point you can hardly differentiate the rope from the other gear in your pack.  Just for a little comparison the Canary 8.6 weighs about half of what a doubles rack of BD C4’s weigh!

Room for Improvement

I honestly have nothing to say about this category. The Canary Pro Dry 8.6 is the first Edelrid rope I have used extensively and I was blown away, mostly with the handling of the rope and the fact that the rope really never tangles.   

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Final Word

The versatility, durability, and weight of the Canary 8.6 is almost unmatched which allows it to excel as an alpine rope. With a triple certification, this rope is also highly versatile and can be used in many different ways.  Since I tested this rope over the summer months I was only able to get miles of rock climbing out of it, but come winter and spring I will be pushing the Canary 8.6 into mixed, ice, and snow climbing.  With my experience with the rope up to this point, I predict the Canary 8.6 will perform as a robust ice or mixed rope used in a doubles configuration as well as fantastic glacier travel rope thanks to its dynamic elongation and Pro Dry treatment. Anyone looking for a highly versatile rope with fantastic handling and durability need look no further, the Edelrid Canary Pro Dry 8.6 should be at the top of the list. 

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